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Sexy, hefty and spicy — 90 points of Cab Franc love
Big ripe red berries, black pepper and cooked sweet peppers. Concentrated, complex and savoury — there’s a lot going on here.
Pot au feu, veal shank, wild boar, charcuterie, Flintstone steak. Maybe a vintage fuzztone.
Cranking up some big guitars — Hendrix, Townshend, Beck — and pushing into sensory overload. Yeah, this wine goes to 11.
Why we're drinking this
We might as well just declare it: Ontario Cabernet Franc really turns our crank. As winemakers come to appreciate the synergies between the grape and our soils, more and more really great Cab Francs are hitting the bottle. The best are forged in a unique style, though quite understandably with a nod to the structure, tannins and acidity of the wines from the grape’s spiritual home in France’s Loire Valley. Which brings us to this exemplary Cab Franc from Creekside, a hefty even muscly wine with huge concentration, full weight and some serious sexiness (Jimi would approve). It hails from the Serluca Family Vineyard in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation, the largest sub-appellation in Niagara. Excellent sun exposure accounts for the embarrassment of premium-quality wines coming from the region. Drink this Creekside now and enjoy a youthfully rustic wine that’s coming together nicely; put a few bottles down and enjoy the evolution as the edges smooth out and the wine blossoms into a supple and sultry beauty.
Fragrant with berries, black pepper and spice, with an apparent meatiness that is quite appealling. Something beautiful is happening here. Though the wine is still young and full of fresh fruit, a lot of intriguing flavours are bouncing around. It has nuances that are almost, as Lindsay Groves points out, akin to Bovril or French onion soup. That’s not weird, mind you. In fact, it’s an indication of some exciting interplay of fruit and barrel. This is a full-bodied, solidly structured wine that will evolve beautifully. For now, bask in its rusticity. This is Cabernet Franc at its best. Excellent length too.
Drink this: Now to 2022
Grapes: 100% Cabernet Franc
Region: VQA Four Mile Creek
Production: 363 cases
Winery: Creekside Estate Winery
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